Hydrogen Peroxide (Developer)
- Comes in varying forms & strengths
- Needed to dye hair a color lighter than original hair
- Lifts previous dye color
- Activates the dyes in the product (induces chemistry)
- Modifies hair surface by making it more porous
Ammonia
- Determines pH (Around 9.5)
- Allows for lightening by acting as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide
- Lifts the cuticle & allows the hair color dyes to penetrate the cortex of the hair
- Raises pH inside the hair to accelerate the dye chemistry
Dyes
- Very small molecules that combine with each other to form larger molecules once inside the hair
- Enter all the way into the cortex & expand to a size that cannot be washed out
- Permanent hair color lightens the hair's natural pigment to form a new base and then deposits a permanent new color
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