Ammonia vs. Non-Ammonia Hair Color: FAQ's

What is Ammonia-Free Color and How Does it Work?

• Color products that are labeled "ammonia free" generally contain an ammonia substitute called mono-ethanolamine or MEA. Like ammonia, MEA is effective at performing the first step of a permanent color service that of opening the cuticle. However, because the MEA molecule is 3.5 times larger than ammonia, it cannot penetrate the hair as effectively, so it might not be as efficient when it comes to lifting natural color out of the hair and depositing artificial color deep into the hair strand. Therefore, non ammonia colors may be less effective than ammonia based color when the colorist attempts to create lasting gray coverage, or the sufficient lightening required to produce exceptional light blonde or vibrant red shades. 

MEA vs. Ammonia What are the Pros and Cons? 

• Ammonia has a distinctive odor, and colorists and clients find the odorless nature of MEA appealing during the color application. What's more, MEA can be quite effective when used in deposit-only demi-permanent formulas which do not lighten hair and which fade gradually. But when it comes to permanent hair color, scientists report that permanent hair color results obtained via use of ammonia based formulas provide excellent predictability. Historically, we note that ammonia-based formulas provide long lasting color, intense vibrancy and superior gray coverage.